Hwacheon

My last trip around South Korea in 2019 starts with Hwacheon country.

Hwacheon is not a big country with a population of about 25,000 people.

During Goguryeo, this area was called Saengcheon-gun 牲川郡 or Yasimae 也尸買. As I found out before, Goguryeo used to give quite negative names to the areas under their rule to show dominance. Saengcheon and Yasimae, as for me, are not exceptions too, because saeng 牲 means a sacrificial animal and si 尸 means a corpse. In 685, during Silla, the region was renamed to more neutral or even positive – Nangcheon 狼川 – Wolf River. Later it was renamed a few times and only in 1869, the area got its present name, Hwacheon 華川 – Flowery River.

The first stop in Hwacheon country is Sanae-myeon where Tomato Festival is held! Would you expect to see there just a fair where plenty of tomato species or tomato products are shown? Then your imagination is the same as weak as mine.

What are they doing? Do they cook ketchup in this way? No, that is how they are looking for a golden ring hidden in one of the tomatoes. I would join them if I have another complect of clothes, but the only thing I could do is just to film and feel envy.

By the way, I tasted some tomatoes there too.

The next destination is Hwacheon Museum. Craft tools, pottery and other items related to Hwacheon history are presented here.

Tiger and magpies is a prominent motif in the minhwa folk art of the Joseon period. The paintings are a satire of the hierarchical structure of Joseon feudal society. The tiger, which is intentionally given a ridiculous and stupid appearance represents authority, while the magpie represents the common man. The painting is known to keep away evil influence.

Seunggyeongdo 陞卿圖 game board. A similar Chinese game takes its origin during Tang dynasty, the earliest historical record dates back to 836. The origin of the Korean game is not known, however, there is a record saying Ha Ryun (1377-1416) made and spread the game. The objective of the game is to attain the highest possible bureaucratic position. Probably the game was used with an educational purpose for candidates on a government post.

Outside the museum there are some items visitors can try, like a basket or traditional games.

The next destination is Oeum-ri, Vietnam Memorial Hall.

During the Vietnam war (1955-1975), from 1964 to March 1973, South Korea sent more than 300,000 troops to South Vietnam, 5099 Koreans were killed. A controversial consequence on the participation in the war is a boost in the South Korean economy due to payments of the US, which are estimated to account for 4% of GDP in 1967.

There are Vietnamese houses of the territory of the memorial.

And small hiding frogs avoiding the sun on an underground stair.

That is all about Hwacheon country, it is time to move on!

Ungjin-ri, somewhere on a bank of Soyangho Lake, the largest man-made lake in South Korea. Soyang Dam is Asia’s largest and the world’s fourth-largest rock-fill dam.

By the way, the name of the village reminds me of Gongju, the city of a legend about a man and a bear. Originally Gongju was called Ungjin 熊津 too, however, I do not know the meaning of the village’s name. It could be the same, Ford of Bear.

Jangheung

The last destination this day after Suncheon and Boseong is Jangheung country!

Jangheung county has a population of 38,628 people by November 2019. Since 2001 the population of the country have decreased by 27% (from 53,392).

During Mahan, probably, the area was called Geonmaguk 乾馬國. It is known, that during Baekje, there were several prefectures in the area, namely, Ocha-hyeon 烏次縣, Masanyang-hyeon 馬斯良縣, Komamiji-hyeon 古馬彌知縣, Gyecheon-hyeon 季川縣. Later, during Goryeo, the area raised to the status of a city and was renamed to Jangheungbu 長興府, as it was the hometown of Queen Gongye.

The word jang 長 generally means long, but it also can be understood as long-lasting, profound, permanent, the word heung 興 means rise, thrive, prosper, flourish, etc. Then, 長興 could be permanent prosperity.

I have visited 3 spots in Suncheon, 2 spots in Boseong, so, I have time only for one spot in Jangheung. I am going to visit the Water Festival held on the banks of Tamjin river. The festival is celebrated every year from the end of July to the beginning of August.

The festival really impressed me, because, I think, it was the first time I have seen so many Koreans being excited, free, dancing and just enjoying the time. One more special thing is that the people I saw there have quite a different look, the style of their clothes and quite uncommon (as I thought) behaviour for Koreans (I have seen one madam getting slightly naked when danced). Unfortunately I did not have time to really enjoy the festival, I believe, to do that, one needs to spend at least a day there, from morning until the evening and try all the activities presented there, watch a performance, taste street foods, check up a market, enjoy concert, sing, dance and play with water.

The setting sun, clouds and the fountains made a fantastic scape that day.

Here are some videos from the concert. The woman sings “아이 좋아라” – “Ah, I like it”, that is what I can say about the festival, I like it so much!

And here is the most delicious thing in travelling, the food. Supper is the best way to finish up a day of intense exploring.

Around Gangwon

Previously I have visited Gangneung, a city in Gangwon province. Today I am going to visit few more places in this province.

The first destination is a country famous around the world as a host country of the Winter Olympics in 2018, Pyeongchang.

I have spent a night here after visiting Gangneung, and by the afternoon I left this place, so nothing much was explored.

On the way, I discovered one quite attractive spot. It is Baekseok waterfall 白石瀑布. It is located it Najeon-ri, Bukpyeong-myeon, Jeongseon country.

A funny thing about the waterfall is that from this observation point water seems to fall from the highest point of the mountain like it is erupting from a volcano. To my best knowledge, the tallest waterfall of South Korea is Ojang waterfall 五臧瀑布 (127 m), also located in Jeongseon country. So, Baekseok is one of the tallest waterfalls in South Korea.

Jeongseon country 旌善郡 appears in history as Ingpaehyeon 仍貝縣 during Goguryeo Dynasty ( 37 BCE–668 CE ) and gets the present days name in 1012. The character jeong 旌 means a flag or to honour; the character seon 善 have many positive meanings and can be translated into English as good, beautiful, good, kind, excellent, best; kindhearted, hospitable, friendly; auspicious, happy. Then, Jeongseon may mean to honour goodness. By the way, the name of the tallest waterfall, Ojang 五臧瀑布, contains character jang 臧 which also can be a synonym for seon 善, however, oajng 五臧, as 五藏, usually is referred to five classic books of Buddhism or five organs of a man (heart, liver, spleen, lung, kidney).

The next destination in Jeongseon is Jeongamsa Jeogmyeolbogung temple 淨岩寺 寂滅寶宮.

The exact date when the temple was built is unknown, but, it is believed that it was built by Silla queen Seondeok (died in 647), who is the first reigning queen in the history of Korea. Jeogmyeolbogung 寂滅寶宮, nirvana precious palace, is a type of temples built during Silla to enshrine Shakyamuni Buddha, the founder of Buddhism. A specific feature of this kind of temples is that there are no Buddha statues because there are remains of the Buddha’s body (사리, 舍利, śarīra). Here, the sarira is stored in the Sumano Pagoda 水瑪瑙塔.

The pagoda is made up of gray-green limestone bricks, due to this, it has got name Sumano 水瑪瑙 – watery agate.

Another specific feature of the temple is wind bells, punggyeong 風磬, with fishes hanging on bell-clappers.

And the river rapidly flowing down makes beautiful scenery.

It is time to move on!

From Jeongseon country we entered to Taebaek city. Here the plan was to visit Hambaeksan mountain, but, for some reason, the way was locked. So, I just had a chance to look around on the roadside.

Being not far from the border between Jeongseon and Taebaek, after a short time we entered Jeongseon again, and found an unplanned attraction here!

Manhangjae forest park. It is a perfect place to enjoy the variety of mountain plants and insects accompanying them. Many people are resting there, having picknics; there’re many nice paths to walk around, photo exhibition, and information stands about the local plants. There diversity of the plant species must be really great because I didn’t see many of the plants shown on the stands, maybe it is not the time for those species.

It is not yet all about Gangwon province, but it is time to move on!